First paddle out with Donnie in quite a while. And the first time I’ve been out since the Sunday Super Session. He had the day off, so we leisurely made our way up to Taco Bell Reed on 9th Street in Huntington. There was just a slight breeze, the water was cool, the clouds were light and high and we could see Catalina clearly. The waves were lovely little 2s and 3s with occasional bigger close-outs. Great longboarding action for sure. Donnie said it best when he declared the day as “gloriousness.” He followed with, “I don’t know if that’s a word or not, but that’s what it is today.” He was totally right.
I did keep falling victim to the “antsy trap.” After a lull, a set would roll in and I’d be so impatient, I’d grab the first wave I could and ride it down the line. Then I turn back to give Donnie the thumbs up and he’d always be riding a bigger, better, longer wave from the set. Man, I just couldn’t wait out the sets today. Kudos to Donnie for his zen-like patience.