The Swell Is Here…And It Is Good

ByJeff

I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention.  So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends to make it an epic day.

I’d been complaining that my 6’8″ Pepito was getting too long for me.  Not that the board is magically stretching, but that I keep wanting to hack 4 or 5 inches off it.  I want to crank it off the tips of waves, but it is a lot of board to have to swing around.  Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing.  It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington.  Save for the wonky middle fin (skewed left and loose), it’s worth a try.

Today I had a lot of luck with the board.  I found it much easier to maneuver than the Pepito. Looking forward to getting to know the board.

Similar Posts

Both Sides of the Pier

ByJeff

Waves not quite as good as yesterday, but still good.  3-4 footers, but nothing much over that at the end of the sets like yesterday.  And the rip was extra strong today.  I started out on the south side of the pier and by the time I got out I was at 9th Street.  But…

Venice Chowder

ByJeff

All the guys arrived at El Porto only to find 1s and 2s at best.  Josh had a hunch that Venice might be better and that we should head up and find out.  So we all piled into our cars and travelled a few miles up the coast. At Venice, the wind was much more…

New Lexicon: Dragonslayer

ByJeff

I was out surfing yesterday, and there was still a bit of the big swell left over from earlier last week.  Left over swell tends to come infrequently.  The sets coming rolling in as they will.  One set comes.  A second set rolls through.  Three sets go by.  Then something looks amiss in deep water….