The Swell Is Here…And It Is Good

I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention.  So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends to make it an epic day.

I’d been complaining that my 6’8″ Pepito was getting too long for me.  Not that the board is magically stretching, but that I keep wanting to hack 4 or 5 inches off it.  I want to crank it off the tips of waves, but it is a lot of board to have to swing around.  Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing.  It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington.  Save for the wonky middle fin (skewed left and loose), it’s worth a try.

Today I had a lot of luck with the board.  I found it much easier to maneuver than the Pepito. Looking forward to getting to know the board.

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