The Swell Has Arrived!

How to even find the words to describe today’s surf session?  It was easily one of the best sessions I’ve ever had.  I was trying to remember other sessions that could compare.  (Two came to mind: 1. the super foggy day at el porto a few months ago and 2. a trip Josh and I took to Trestles two Octobers ago (pre blog).)

Josh, Uzair and I paddled out just south of the Huntington pier as the tide was midway going high to low.  Right off the bat we started picking off overhead waves like they were a dime a dozen, flying down the faces with crazy grins on our faces, hooting each other on.  The crowd was surprisingly thin even for a regular day, but especially because it was a big forecast on a Saturday.  I had dozens of great waves, but two in particular are now etched into the “permanent” section of my brain.  I felt like Laird Hamilton at Jaws sailing down their huge faces.  (As always, I fully recognize that what a wave feels like and what it actually looks like are completely different.)

The curious dolphin pod was back today as well.  They were goofing about yesterday too, but I didn’t have time to write about them.  These dolphins (along with riding the better waves) were popping up all around the surfers and just staring at us.  They would stare and stare and then almost say, “huh,” before submerging.  As if so imply, “Huh, you’re right, Lenny.  That guy really does have a weirdly big head. I wouldn’t have believed you had I not gone up there and seen it for myself.”

Also, my Junod board came back from the board doctor today.  She looks better than new.  I think I might take it out tomorrow.  (Which may be a terrible idea.  The conditions of late are quite similar to when I nearly snapped it in two.)