So, I didn’t make it out every day this week like I’d hoped, but it’s only been 1-2s since Monday anyway. However, today the ocean lit up. The sets were a bit inconsistent, but when a set waves did come, they were strong, shoulder to head-high waves.
Super fun rides. But for every good ride I had, I seemed to rack up a gnarly wipeout too. It was very yin/yang out there. My wipeouts included the classic freefall, the nose-dig/pitch forward and the water skip.
The northerly drift took me up the beach about a mile before I really realized I was on the move. I must have been too busy keeping my eye on the horizon for the Bodhi wave. Somewhere along the way on the walk back I stepped in a tar patch. I noticed the black patches on my feet when I got to the showers. Foolishly I tried to clean it off with my hands and just wound up with tar on my feet and my hands. Free tip: when you get tar on your feet, wait until you get home and pumice those blotches off. Don’t use your hands. NO OFFSHORE DRILLING!
And the water is still quite cold, but not as cold as Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay 🙂