There’s not even a proper way to describe the surf session we had yesterday. It was too good. Some of the Portoers came down to Huntington to try out my special spot. The weather was perfect, waves were perfect… It was like we we were making a surf film. Like some company had been waiting for the swell to be just right, then called us all down for a session.
We had nearly all our boards down at the beach. The swell was moving south, it was mostly all rights, lovely, giant, long rights. We’d walk north a few lifeguard towers and paddle out. We’d surf, surf, surf until we drited past our boards on the beach. Then we’d all right one in, switch boards and start all over again. This went on for several laps and several hours. We were all grinin’ like kids on Christmas.
It really couldn’t have been better.