Peter, Tracy, Aaron and I paddle out at Bolsa Chica this morning. It was new board Sunday! Aaron was taking out is new Sea Nymph, I took out my new Harbour Fish (which I still haven’t told you about), Tracy took out is Dan-O (nothing new there, sorry), and Thunderlips took out is self-built board for the first time. It’s a kind of biscuit-style model, with carbon-fiber outside. It is the first board built by a Portoer, so we are all proud of Pete. We’re still batting around nicknames for the board, but early contenders are The Peeb and Purple Rain.
Unfortunately the waves were not to cooperative for Pete’s inaugural run. We hit Bolsa early, about two hours before high tide. The only other options was to wait out high tide and try later in the afternoon, but with the storm on the horizon, there was a good chance rain or wind would make the afternoon impossible for surf (we were right on that prediction). But what we did have were sizable lumps that were not to keen to pick up surfers on their way into shore. All along the lineup, dudes and ladies were paddling for their lives and rarely getting into the waves. Lots of frustrated profanity hovered on the water. We all managed a few decent rides, but for the amount of time were were out, wave count was low.
The highlight of the session was when this Santa like character paddled out on a huge log in a no-sleeved spring suit. He paddled WAY outside, 100 yard from the next guy. Then Santa paddled for a lump on the outside and caught it. Santa started shouting, “Here I go! Whoooo, doggie. Get it, Daddy, get into it! Whooooooo!” He was awesome.