Sectiony Close-outs as Swell Builds

ByJeff

It is like a good soap opera out there. The swell continues to build from yesterday. Today the waves were 2-4s with the occasional head-high wave. I tried waiting for mid-tide today, but that didn’t seem to help much. Most waves were sectiony close-outs. All I really got out of today’s sesh were some fun drop-ins. I felt like I spent most of my time out there paddling, which was good for conditioning, but, man, did I get tired fast. I did go out in trunks though, so that was exciting. The water was up to about 65 and the sun was out. And, besides myself, the line up consisted of only two other dudes, so that was awesome. It would have been a real bummer to scrap for today’s wave fare.

Stay tuned and stay stoked…

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