All of the LA-based crew how to bow out today, so Sean and I opted for Bolsa Chica instead. It was super foggy. So foggy one couldn’t see the break from the shore. Tensions were high while out in the water. We had to be on orange alert for a rogue wave to come out of the fog and sweep us away.
I was on the Sausage prototype again, this time with my Solus Future Fins. Had one of my best waves ever. A nice meaty one came right to me and picked me up with barely a paddle. It was a long, long right with face like a half pipe. It seemed like it was going to close out on me at any moment, so I just kept pumping and picking up speed to stay just head of the danger zone. It was Brilliant. The memory of that one will keep me going for some time.