I think Monday was my last trunk session for the year. The winds really kicked up in the last two days and today the full suit was a must. In fact, it almost wasn’t enough. I don’t know how weather and ocean drop so quickly, but I was happy as a clam in my shorts on Monday, and shivering and numb today. My hands numbed immediately and turned into “lobster claws,” as Jake likes to call numbed out hands. Brrrr, baby!
The strong breeze helped push the waves up a bit. I had to sift through a lot of wind chop, but the patient surfer was rewarded with nice shoulder-high right that zipped down the beach. Me and another dude always seemed to be passing each other by. One of us would be flying down the line and the other would be paddling back to the sweet spot. We kept giving each other the “Oh Yeah!” nods each time we passed. All the numbness was totally worth it. Totally.