Oh, man. I did not recapture yesterday’s glory. I think I was still too pooped from the marathon session Josh, Uzair and I had. I started out just south of the pier and right from the get-go my shoulders started burning. And by the time I was right in the drop zone, I was out of gas all together. I tried to fight through, but three on the head convinced me to head back in and take a breather (not to mention by this point I’d drifted south several towers).
I sat on the beach and watched the ocean for a while, came up with a plan and started out again. This time I made it, but it took all my reserves and my reserves’s reserves. But I’d made the classic mistake of making it out just on principle, then realizing I had nothing left to get back in.
Part of what drove me I think was that I’d taken out my newly repaired Junod and didn’t want to let it down. (It came back beautifully by the way.) And for added experimentation, I put the Revolver’s high performance fin on it. So, I made two mistakes really. One mentioned above, the other being taking out unfamiliar equipment in critical terrain.
The few waves I did get were besieged by noodle-armed pop-ups and tired rides – not worth of the waves or the board. Oh well, you have to have the poor days to make the good days good.
