Great Day For Noseriding

It was a fine day for noseriding, though I really didn’t have the board for it.  Still, I managed a few cheater fives.  But the waves were excellent – good shape, rights and lefts, peeling at a slight angle to the beach…  The rides were long and wonderful.  The rides were so long in fact…

A Wave To Remember

Why do I love surfing? The reasons are many, but here is one specific reason: sometimes everything comes together to make for a perfect ride. Being  in the right spot, the waves are just so, I’ve got the perfect board for the conditions, Jupiter aligns with Mars…  Today I got one of those rides.  (Though,…

Sunny Days, Weak Waves

Another day of great weather/water, but mediocre waves. The waves were bigger than the last few days, some getting to the shoulder range, but none of the waves had any strength behind them. The sets would roll in, we’d get all excited, we’d paddle our hearts out then – poof! The waves would just disappear…

Electric Ladyland

It was a great surf session for me today.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite so for Donnie.  Somehow we were on very different wavelengths.  Poor Donnie just couldn’t sync up with the ocean.  Worse still, it was clear to him that I was in the zone.  I did my best not to hoot and holler too…