It was a fine day for noseriding, though I really didn’t have the board for it. Still, I managed a few cheater fives. But the waves were excellent – good shape, rights and lefts, peeling at a slight angle to the beach… The rides were long and wonderful. The rides were so long in fact…
Another day of great weather/water, but mediocre waves. The waves were bigger than the last few days, some getting to the shoulder range, but none of the waves had any strength behind them. The sets would roll in, we’d get all excited, we’d paddle our hearts out then – poof! The waves would just disappear…
Donnie and I have set into a habit of going surfing everyday at 10.30. But over the last few days as the swell has dropped and dropped, we’ve gravitated closer and closer to the pier. (Today was a far cry from the 5 footers plus we were tangling with last week.) We stared at the…