A Wave To Remember

Why do I love surfing? The reasons are many, but here is one specific reason: sometimes everything comes together to make for a perfect ride. Being  in the right spot, the waves are just so, I’ve got the perfect board for the conditions, Jupiter aligns with Mars…  Today I got one of those rides.  (Though,…

Riding Giants

Riding Giants will go down in history as one of the great surf films. Often I’ll watch a surf movie, pick up some pointers and then take those new ideas to the beach to test them out.  But in Riding Giants, those surfers are so far beyond my ability, so far beyond even my aspirations…

Sectiony

What is sectiony? In a perfect world all waves would peel beautifully from one end of the wave to the other in one smooth, continuous motion – one curl per wave.  But as we all know, this is not an ideal world and waves aren’t always perfect.  When a swell builds into a wave and…