Ever wanted to venture outside of your usual surf breaks? Assuming you live in California, Surfing California: A Complete Guide to the Best Breaks on the California Coast is a great book to help you find all the major breaks in California. Raul Guisado and Jeff Klaas do a great job getting you to the…
I just finished reading Steven Kotler‘s West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief where he searches for “surfing, science and the origins of belief.” In this non-fiction book, Kotler is a journalist in search of a story he hears about a weather controlling surf guru called “The Conductor.” Hilarity ensues. Overall I…
I just finished reading Steven Kotler‘s West of Jesus where he searches for “surfing, science and the origins of belief.” Kotler is a journalist in search of a story he hears about a weather controlling surf guru. Hilarity ensues. I’m usual a fan of adventure books. I don’t mean “adventure” in the sense of westerns,…
I love surfing as much as the next guy. But here is another case of someone taking a sport to the XTREME! I imagine you’d have to dress up like Randy from A Christmas Story, but then how does one paddle? Paddling methods must also be XTREME! but I don’t know what that might be….
I was out surfing yesterday, and there was still a bit of the big swell left over from earlier last week. Left over swell tends to come infrequently. The sets coming rolling in as they will. One set comes. A second set rolls through. Three sets go by. Then something looks amiss in deep water….