Poseidon brought me sweet birthday waves today.  Not only were they great size and shape, but they were consistent as well.  Even with the crowds, nobody was want for a waves.  I surfed until my arms gave out.  And I got to test out a new Harbour prototype board.  It’s a kind of thruster biscuit they are tentatively calling The Sausage.  Frankly, I find that a rude name for such a brilliant little board.  I think they should call it The Cloud.

Josh and I swapped boards so I got to ride his Electric Orange all morning.  Dig that little board.  It was a good day for the quad and I felt solid throughout the session.

Met up with a friend Brad to talk about some web stuff.  Afterward he asked it I had my surf gear with me because he was heading out afterward.  He was heading to the Sunset Jetty, which I’d never surfed before.  That’s one of those breaks that only works under very specific conditions, but when it’s on, it’s on.  I didn’t have my stuff, but I was near the Harbour surf shop.  So I popped up there real quick for some loner equipment. The waves were spectacular.  I rode a Harbour Rapier model for the first time and came the…

Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday.  The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun.  Josh was nuts out there today.  Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM!  That dude is a wave warrior.

More of the same – Perfect rights.  I spent another 4 hour session out in the water.  Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver.  More power turns, less cheater-fives.  I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again.  The toughest part is choosing what board to ride.  For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board.  I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board.  Go-go…

Every winter I seem to want to size down some.  This fall is promising the cycle will continue.  My 6’8″ is just feeling too long.  Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday.  Finally Peter said, “Just get it over with, go to 6′ or so and take the time to learn!” In the meantime, Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing. It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington. So far, I’d still whittle a few inches of the nose, but I’m having fun with it.  The middle…

I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse.  And it was glorious.  Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down. I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go.  Literally back-to-back.  After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis.  But it didn’t matter.  I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while. Chuck…

There was a disturbance in the force today.  The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn.  The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to predict. I didn’t have the success on the Chuck Dent today that I had yesterday either, but that’s to be expected for the conditions.  I also hit the tide at the wrong time too so that didn’t help.  Still, had fun, got some exercise. I did feel the wonkiness of the back fin on the Dent.  When I’m riding frontside, it feels like its…