The Golden Day

I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse.  And it was glorious.  Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down.

I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go.  Literally back-to-back.  After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis.  But it didn’t matter.  I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while.

Chuck Dent board is still trying to turn me out of frontside rides.  But my turns do feel like they are getting sharper.

Leave a Comment