I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse. And it was glorious. Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down.
I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go. Literally back-to-back. After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis. But it didn’t matter. I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while.
Chuck Dent board is still trying to turn me out of frontside rides. But my turns do feel like they are getting sharper.