While on a conference call this afternoon the power went out. I immediately took that as a sign from Poseidon that I was supposed to go back out and surf. As fast as I could I got my trunks on and my bike loaded before the power came back on. But the afternoon winds blew…
The wave really wanted to be somebody. They could have been a contender, instead of a bummer, which is what they were. They had the shape, and nearly the strength, but there was just no size. Board choice didn’t even come into it today. Granted, I was way over-shooting it with the Electric, but there…
If I didn’t alreayd know that tomorrow is the official first day of fall, I’d have said it arrived today. Jack Lordy were those winds howling and churning up the ocean this afternoon. I’ve been riding my bike to Bolsa Chica and back, preparing myself for an upcoming backpack trip. It was windy as all…
Today was not yesterday. The water had sand churned into it and no longer had the clarity of yore. The water also had these disagreeable frigid patches I kept passing through. The chop was way up on the Richter scale and the waves had dropped in size and strength. And there were jackals swarming the…
Originally I had gone down to the pier to take some photos of Kelly Slater in his first heat at the US Open. (Keep track of the heats here. Live video coming on Thursday.) But then a wicked fog bank rolled in and the competitions got stalled. I waited for it to lift for a…
The forecast called for 2-3 with some 4s today. And I’ll admit the waves were indeed 2 to 3 feet with the occasional 4 footer rolling through. But the wave today and no zest, no zip, no umph. There was nothing behind them. Donnie and I went out in the hopes that we’d find something,…
The surf report didn’t inspire much hope this morning. And being there on the beach didn’t make the desire to get out and stronger. In fact, I saw quite a few surfers just turn away. But, a) I had my spiffy new Harbour Electric with me (though not the board for the day at all)…
The most terrifying thing about today’s surf session was the beach break. I’d catch these clunkers way on the outside. Then I’d fight them all the way waiting for the wave to form. And once the wave did form it was suddenly a 5 foot face ready to break right on the beach into a…
Peter and I set out for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd this morning. We got there at 5:30 just in time for the -2 ft low-tide but there was nothing to ride. Just tiny waves breaking right on the beach. We decided to pull stakes and take our chances at Venice. There was…