I packed up my camera & tripod, suited up and took my board down to the pier today. My intent was to get some footage of the apex of the south swell rolling through, then paddle out myself. But I was surprised to only find 3 dudes out in the water when I arrived. I’d…
There’s not even a proper way to describe the surf session we had yesterday. It was too good. Some of the Portoers came down to Huntington to try out my special spot. The weather was perfect, waves were perfect… It was like we we were making a surf film. Like some company had been waiting…
The wave really wanted to be somebody. They could have been a contender, instead of a bummer, which is what they were. They had the shape, and nearly the strength, but there was just no size. Board choice didn’t even come into it today. Granted, I was way over-shooting it with the Electric, but there…
Another subpar surf session. I went out during my lunch break for a quick one, but there wasn’t much there. (Still no reason not to go out though.) The wind is really taking its toll on the waves. Surface texture is giving way to plain ol’ chop and the waves couldn’t have been more sectiony. …
By the end of the work day yesterday both my eyes were twitching and my back was burning with a searing pain. I was heading out for sure no matter what the conditions. I’d been watching the wind pick up all day and figure there would be some significant chop out there. And boy, was…
Brandon called me again on Friday and asked if I wanted to head out with him on Saturday morning for some surf surfing. “Of course! Duh!” I said. We actually paddled out around 17th Street, but the current was such that we wound up at Dog Beach by the time we got out of the…
Another quick surf session at Beach Bowls. The sets tended to come frequently and provide a few decent rides, both rights and lefts. But when the high tide came in the sets got mushed out a bit. If you are planning to go out tonight though, should be good if the wind stays down. I…
Work had me at the desk all day today. Mrs. Jeff had a meeting to go to in the evening, so I went to the garage to see her off. Once she driven away, I stood there surrounded by my surfboards trying to motivate myself to get back to work. It didn’t happen. The ocean…
Brandon texted me last night and said he wanted to get wet if I was going out. After a full week of surfing the bigger waves, I’d planned on taking the weekend off. But I’ll never pass up a chance to have a surf session with B. Considering that the swell is still pretty awesome…
Another day of awesome waves at the Huntington Pier. My poor buddies up in LA weren’t so lucky. I hear it just isn’t firing up there today. (Although one of EPF’s tweeps said Porto was head-high this morning.) One of the great things about Huntington – it will catch a swell from anywhere. Nothing to…