AdSanity Testing

3 January 2019

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Pixel Jar


The Golden Day

29 September 2010

I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse.  And it was glorious.  Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down. I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go.  Literally back-to-back.  After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis.  But it didn’t matter.  I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while. Chuck…

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Stormy Skies?

28 September 2010

There was a disturbance in the force today.  The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn.  The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to predict. I didn’t have the success on the Chuck Dent today that I had yesterday either, but that’s to be expected for the conditions.  I also hit the tide at the wrong time too so that didn’t help.  Still, had fun, got some exercise. I did feel the wonkiness of the back fin on the Dent.  When I’m riding frontside, it feels like its…

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The Swell Is Here…And It Is Good

27 September 2010

I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention.  So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends to make it an epic day. I’d been complaining that my 6’8″ Pepito was getting too long for me.  Not that the board is magically stretching, but that I keep wanting to hack 4 or 5 inches off it.  I want to crank it off…

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Small El Porto Day

24 September 2010

It was a small day and we knew that going in.  But poor Josh hadn’t been out in forever what with his boat sculpture and getting sick.  Peter rolled up shortly after and said Tracy was already out in the water.  He and I compared stingray wounds.  Sean stopped by to say hello, but had to go to work. There was nothing noteworthy about the surfing itself.  Very small waves, we made the best of it.  But it was fun hanging out with all the guys as usual. The most disturbing thing about the day was the Hitchcockian flock of…

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Afternoon Delight

20 September 2010

Another great day as the awesome swell that made for a superb Hurley Pro at Trestles fades.  The wind hadn’t picked up too much and the sun came out, so I rode down for an afternoon surf.  It was DElight.  The waves were great size, strength and shape.  And the crowds were surprisingly light which made it even better.  I had a basket full of good waves.  So much fun.  SO MUCH FUN.

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Super Fun Friday

17 September 2010

With the big swell on the way, we first tried hitting up Dockweiler in hopes of catching some of the swell without the crowds, but we were out of luck.  So we caravaned down to El Porto and paddled out there.  It was a bit crowded, but man, oh man were those waves fun.  The rights were gnarly drop-ins and the lefts were spectacular long rides.  (The downside of the lefts being that the rip was going in the same direction, so after two or three waves we were a quarter mile down the beach.)  Josh, Wilson, CW, Edgar and…

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Just Paddling Practice

16 September 2010

It had been about 5 days since I’d been out and the buzz was that there was a gnarly swell on the way.  I went out with the main intent of just getting out to paddle about and get everything stretched out.  Good thing that was my main goal.  It was afternoon and the wind was up so there really wasn’t much on offer.  I made a few mushy corners but nothing notable. The funniest thing was before I went into the water a couple of out-of-towners asked if they could take my picture.  They wanted a picture of a…

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Small, But Surprisingly Good

10 September 2010

We went into this morning thinking it was likely to be another lay-day.  But after having a lay-day last week, Sean, CW, Mike and I were hell-bent on paddling out no matter what. Look at that picture!  There are no waves nor people out there at all.  But much to our surprise, and though the waves rarely were over 2 feet, there was some zip and length to them.  And the sun was actually out and warm and the day was gorgeous… We actually had so much fun that we fed the meters after 8 (bastards) to continue our session. …

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Bring Your Quarters: El Porto Parking Lot Meters Now Start at 8am

9 September 2010

One good reason to surf the dawn patrol at El Porto was the parking lot meters didn’t start until 9am. Get in the water at 645, surf for two hours, a quick rinse in the shower next to the stairs and you’re in the office by 930, with that stoke that lasts through the day. But changes this weekend might result in your stoke turning to ire – the city has dropped the time the meters begin from 9am to 8am. Which means the casual pre-surf parking lot chit chat and board waxing are suddenly much more expensive. As is…

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