Poseidon brought me sweet birthday waves today. Not only were they great size and shape, but they were consistent as well. Even with the crowds, nobody was want for a waves. I surfed until my arms gave out. And I got to test out a new Harbour prototype board. It’s a kind of thruster biscuit they are tentatively calling The Sausage. Frankly, I find that a rude name for such a brilliant little board. I think they should call it The Cloud.
Josh and I swapped boards so I got to ride his Electric Orange all morning. Dig that little board. It was a good day for the quad and I felt solid throughout the session.
Met up with a friend Brad to talk about some web stuff. Afterward he asked it I had my surf gear with me because he was heading out afterward. He was heading to the Sunset Jetty, which I’d never surfed before. That’s one of those breaks that only works under very specific conditions, but when it’s on, it’s on. I didn’t have my stuff, but I was near the Harbour surf shop. So I popped up there real quick for some loner equipment.
The waves were spectacular. I rode a Harbour Rapier model for the first time and came the closest I’ve ever been to a decent, sustained noseride. Great session.
Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday. The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun. Josh was nuts out there today. Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM! That dude is a wave warrior.
More of the same – Perfect rights. I spent another 4 hour session out in the water. Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver. More power turns, less cheater-fives. I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again. The toughest part is choosing what board to ride. For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board. I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board. Go-go Gadget Longboard!
I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend. I’d surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo. The forecast was showing that the pumping swell from the week should have been dying off, but it was not so. Both Friday and Saturday were perfection. I’d brought my Revolver and the Junod for board choices. I always like to have the Revolver when I go to a new spot; it’s such a great all-around board.
The kelp was insanity. But what really spooked me was having to take off right from the rock point. (If you’ve never seen this spot, there is a giant, sharp rock protruding out of the water that plies the swell and creates a beautiful right peeler. But to get it, one must paddle frighteningly close to the rock to pick up the wave.) I paddled out and watched the others take off for a while before summoning the courage to go. But it was all worth it.
The take off was a bit alarming as the kelp would grab and snag on the fin, so there was a kind of stutter to the board while riding away from the rock. Then there’d be a lovely clean face for a bit until the wave died down. But persisting through the mushy section led to shangri-la. The wave would stand back up and start moving so fast down the line. Dig in and ride the lightning. It was so spectacular.
And nearly every wave was like that – straight brilliant.
Every winter I seem to want to size down some. This fall is promising the cycle will continue. My 6’8″ is just feeling too long. Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday. Finally Peter said, “Just get it over with, go to 6′ or so and take the time to learn!”
In the meantime, Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing. It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington. So far, I’d still whittle a few inches of the nose, but I’m having fun with it. The middle fin is a bit skewed and de-laminated though, so that always tries to drive the board left a bit.
I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse. And it was glorious. Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down.
I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go. Literally back-to-back. After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis. But it didn’t matter. I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while.
Chuck Dent board is still trying to turn me out of frontside rides. But my turns do feel like they are getting sharper.
There was a disturbance in the force today. The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn. The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to predict.
I didn’t have the success on the Chuck Dent today that I had yesterday either, but that’s to be expected for the conditions. I also hit the tide at the wrong time too so that didn’t help. Still, had fun, got some exercise.
I did feel the wonkiness of the back fin on the Dent. When I’m riding frontside, it feels like its always trying to turn me off the wave. I’m sure I’ll get used to it eventually, but when I get back on a proper thruster, I am sure I am going to over correct turns for a session or two.
I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention. So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends to make it an epic day.
I’d been complaining that my 6’8″ Pepito was getting too long for me. Not that the board is magically stretching, but that I keep wanting to hack 4 or 5 inches off it. I want to crank it off the tips of waves, but it is a lot of board to have to swing around. Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing. It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington. Save for the wonky middle fin (skewed left and loose), it’s worth a try.
Today I had a lot of luck with the board. I found it much easier to maneuver than the Pepito. Looking forward to getting to know the board.