Big waves on order this week. I went back up to Harbour to borrow the Sausage again. Man, I dig that board. I need to get one of my own. Although I am tempted to try getting it in a quad set up. Anyway, big beautiful waves at the Sunset Jetty today. Long peely rights for the taking. And I took. It was very similar to that foggy day in December at Bolsa Chica. It’s supposed to be even bigger tomorrow.
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Finally! The rains have stopped, the holidays are over and we all managed to stay healthy to get together for another coveted El Porto Friday. Great crew today to: Josh, Mike, Aaron, Edgar, CW, and even Sean stopped by to say hello (but couldn’t stay). It was a junky day too, but I think we were all craving to get back into the groove that it didn’t matter what the conditions were like. We did our best with what came, but there wasn’t much to surf. Mainly we just bobbed in the line-up and caught up with each other.
All of the LA-based crew how to bow out today, so Sean and I opted for Bolsa Chica instead. It was super foggy. So foggy one couldn’t see the break from the shore. Tensions were high while out in the water. We had to be on orange alert for a rogue wave to come out of the fog and sweep us away.
I was on the Sausage prototype again, this time with my Solus Future Fins. Had one of my best waves ever. A nice meaty one came right to me and picked me up with barely a paddle. It was a long, long right with face like a half pipe. It seemed like it was going to close out on me at any moment, so I just kept pumping and picking up speed to stay just head of the danger zone. It was Brilliant. The memory of that one will keep me going for some time.
Poseidon brought me sweet birthday waves today. Not only were they great size and shape, but they were consistent as well. Even with the crowds, nobody was want for a waves. I surfed until my arms gave out. And I got to test out a new Harbour prototype board. It’s a kind of thruster biscuit they are tentatively calling The Sausage. Frankly, I find that a rude name for such a brilliant little board. I think they should call it The Cloud.
Josh and I swapped boards so I got to ride his Electric Orange all morning. Dig that little board. It was a good day for the quad and I felt solid throughout the session.
Met up with a friend Brad to talk about some web stuff. Afterward he asked it I had my surf gear with me because he was heading out afterward. He was heading to the Sunset Jetty, which I’d never surfed before. That’s one of those breaks that only works under very specific conditions, but when it’s on, it’s on. I didn’t have my stuff, but I was near the Harbour surf shop. So I popped up there real quick for some loner equipment.
The waves were spectacular. I rode a Harbour Rapier model for the first time and came the closest I’ve ever been to a decent, sustained noseride. Great session.
Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday. The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun. Josh was nuts out there today. Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM! That dude is a wave warrior.
More of the same – Perfect rights. I spent another 4 hour session out in the water. Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver. More power turns, less cheater-fives. I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again. The toughest part is choosing what board to ride. For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board. I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board. Go-go Gadget Longboard!
I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend. I’d surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo. The forecast was showing that the pumping swell from the week should have been dying off, but it was not so. Both Friday and Saturday were perfection. I’d brought my Revolver and the Junod for board choices. I always like to have the Revolver when I go to a new spot; it’s such a great all-around board.
The kelp was insanity. But what really spooked me was having to take off right from the rock point. (If you’ve never seen this spot, there is a giant, sharp rock protruding out of the water that plies the swell and creates a beautiful right peeler. But to get it, one must paddle frighteningly close to the rock to pick up the wave.) I paddled out and watched the others take off for a while before summoning the courage to go. But it was all worth it.
The take off was a bit alarming as the kelp would grab and snag on the fin, so there was a kind of stutter to the board while riding away from the rock. Then there’d be a lovely clean face for a bit until the wave died down. But persisting through the mushy section led to shangri-la. The wave would stand back up and start moving so fast down the line. Dig in and ride the lightning. It was so spectacular.
And nearly every wave was like that – straight brilliant.