It had been about 5 days since I’d been out and the buzz was that there was a gnarly swell on the way. I went out with the main intent of just getting out to paddle about and get everything stretched out. Good thing that was my main goal. It was afternoon and the wind was up so there really wasn’t much on offer. I made a few mushy corners but nothing notable.
The funniest thing was before I went into the water a couple of out-of-towners asked if they could take my picture. They wanted a picture of a “real Californian surfer.” I told them they had the wrong dude, but they insisted. First they just took a straight picture of me, then a photo with one of them standing by me, then more family until finally they had to find some other stranger to take a full group photo.