I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend. I’d surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo. The forecast was showing that the pumping swell from the week should have been dying off, but it was not so. Both Friday and Saturday were perfection. I’d brought…
Every winter I seem to want to size down some. This fall is promising the cycle will continue. My 6’8″ is just feeling too long. Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday. Finally Peter said, “Just get it over with, go to 6′ or so and take the time to learn!” In the…
I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse. And it was glorious. Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down. I caught 3…
There was a disturbance in the force today. The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn. The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to predict. I didn’t have the success on the Chuck Dent today that I had yesterday either, but that’s to…
I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention. So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends…
It was a small day and we knew that going in. But poor Josh hadn’t been out in forever what with his boat sculpture and getting sick. Peter rolled up shortly after and said Tracy was already out in the water. He and I compared stingray wounds. Sean stopped by to say hello, but had…
Another great day as the awesome swell that made for a superb Hurley Pro at Trestles fades. The wind hadn’t picked up too much and the sun came out, so I rode down for an afternoon surf. It was DElight. The waves were great size, strength and shape. And the crowds were surprisingly light which…
With the big swell on the way, we first tried hitting up Dockweiler in hopes of catching some of the swell without the crowds, but we were out of luck. So we caravaned down to El Porto and paddled out there. It was a bit crowded, but man, oh man were those waves fun. The…
It had been about 5 days since I’d been out and the buzz was that there was a gnarly swell on the way. I went out with the main intent of just getting out to paddle about and get everything stretched out. Good thing that was my main goal. It was afternoon and the wind…
We went into this morning thinking it was likely to be another lay-day. But after having a lay-day last week, Sean, CW, Mike and I were hell-bent on paddling out no matter what. Look at that picture! There are no waves nor people out there at all. But much to our surprise, and though the…