Seems like all the El Porto gang are up to crazy shenanigans lately. Aaron and his lovely wife Mary will be screening their new film The Diamonds of Metro Valley at the BUT B-movie Underground and Trash Film Festival in Amsterdam on September 10th at 8pm at Nieuwe Veste Theatre 1. If you happen to be in Amsterdam that Friday (instead of surfing at El Porto) check it out.
Read Cinema Suicide’s review of The Diamonds of Metro Valley.
If you are looking for something awesome to do in the LA area this holiday weekend, I suggest you make a B-line for the Machine Project in Echo Park. Sunday, September 5th from 5pm-10pm is the debut of the Sea Nymph that our beloved Josh has been working on for the last few weeks. Machine Project is located at 1200 N Alvarado St, Los Angeles, CA 90026.
Read more about the sinking ship.
I packed up my camera & tripod, suited up and took my board down to the pier today. My intent was to get some footage of the apex of the south swell rolling through, then paddle out myself. But I was surprised to only find 3 dudes out in the water when I arrived. I’d never seen Huntington so empty of surfers. And after watching the waves for a bit I could see why – the waves were choppy, sectiony and mean. So not only were they difficult to negotiate, they were big, strong and unforgiving. I took a bit of footage from the pier then headed down to the beach to paddle out. But at beach level I saw some firemen and lifeguards tending to a guy I’d seen eat it earlier. He looked pretty beat up. No one in the water + surfer requiring medical attention + no buddy for buddy-system = lay day. Here’s a quick minute of the footage I picked up:
Time for the McConaughfronds again. This is the third straight day of flat, flat, flat. I hope you all are faring better in your local breaks (or vacation breaks if you are so lucky). Peeb and I are heading down to San Diego tomorrow for the Sacred Craft. Hopefully that will keep us stoked until this waveless plague passes.
Aaron asked me to grab some stills of his new board (the P-volver) from the recent video footage. When I went back into iMovie to get them, I noticed that when I imported last weeks video that it also imported a bunch of video from a whole other day back in February. I’d totally forgotten about it! Mike had brought his tripod that day and he and I were goofing around with the camera testing features and what not.
There is some good footage in there too. It’s both awesome and cruel to see those wonderful winter lines. But it should be encouraging to everyone who has answered the most recent poll about how their summers surf is going that the good times will come again. (Nobody has answer in the positive yet.) Anyway, this should have been produced back in February, but now you are being treated to a surprise mid-week episode! Of course, because this is old footage, it got the iMovie Aged Film treatment – enjoy.
Support the band and buy the song:
Album: Cobra And Phases Group Play Voltage In The Milky Night
Song: Come Andy Play In The Milky Night
My local surf spot has been plagued with the blahs this summer. On top of that, I’ve been so busy with work (which I am totally grateful for) that I haven’t been out nearly as much as I’d like. It’s so strange too. Last summer this area was besieged by monster swells, which is unusual for summer. Then we were treated to an El Niño winter/spring and now we’re rocking Super June Gloom 2010 (get melancholy!). Is this the way of the future or just one of those anomaly years?
Anyway, I know there has to be someone out there scoring for the rest of us. Tell me tales of your awesome sessions!
Boy, did I ever goof today. I sent out an email yesterday asking if anyone was planning on paddling out this morning. But do to an email snafu (of my own doing), I didn’t get any responses and I thought it was going to be an off week. Imagine my surprise when I started getting “where are you?” texts and calls in the wee hours of the morning. Turns out most everyone went this morning.
Here’s a quick report from Jordan, our star correspondent on the scene:
2 Mikes, 2 Js, and one A showed up this morning. The clouds swallowed the sun and the waves appeared small. With no expectations we walked to the shore. After some time in the water, the fun began; there were good little rides (and a few larger) all around. We shared a few and some we did not. As we got in our cars we all felt good about a decent morning and Josh sang songs, none are appropriate for this blog.
However, I did get to sleep in and had a scrumptious breakfast burrito from Nick’s in Seal Beach with my lovely wife, so that was super awesome.
On Saturday I had one of the best surf sessions I’ve ever had. On Sunday I had one of the poorest sessions ever. (Granted I didn’t break any bones or boards, but as far as surfing went, it stunk (totally my fault).) So, naturally I started comparing and contrasting both days curious to figure out what the formula is for an epic day. The list is pretty simple:
- Wave Size – Without a certain amount of size there are no maneuvers which limits expression.
- Waves Shape – There’s some give in this requirement. But the waves are just walling out or storm chopped, even if the size is there, it’s a no-go.
- Ride Length – If I spend the whole of a momentary ride planning my exit strategy due to shore break or walls, not fun. I have to have some face time on the wave
- Wave Frequency – Are the set coming at a good pace, or do I have to bob for 20-30 minutes between sets? Can I collect a high wave count for the session? Having one or two great waves is wonderful, but if that’s all I catch, it can be dissatisfying.
- Friends – Do I have someone to share the experience with. This is a philisophical tree-in-the-forest situation. If a surfer dominates a wave, but there’s no friend to hear about it, does it count?
- Personal Performance – Am I on par, or am I flubbing the take-offs and bottom turns. Am I squeezing everything you can out of the wave? Am I pushing myself to new frontiers?
After I though up my list, I started looking at it from the other way around – what would be the bare minimum to have an epic day, which of these ingredients could I give up? Then I hit upon the latest EPF poll question! Of the epic ingredients, which most crucial to having an epic session?
Look at this forecast! (North Orange County) It’s so good for so long my iPhone screen can’t even contain it all. CHARGE!
So, did Santa bring you anything awesome and surf related? He did to me! He brought me a pair of fins and a new camera to help make the El Porto Fridays videos even better. (Well, it’s still up to us to make them better, of course, but we have the potential to get better.) Santa also brought me Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing to read. I’m about half way through, good stuff.
How about you? What did Santa bring you? (Tell us in the comments!)