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30 October 2018


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Bolsa Chica Friday

10 December 2010

All of the LA-based crew how to bow out today, so Sean and I opted for Bolsa Chica instead.  It was super foggy.  So foggy one couldn’t see the break from the shore.  Tensions were high while out in the water.  We had to be on orange alert for a rogue wave to come out of the fog and sweep us away. I was on the Sausage prototype again, this time with my Solus Future Fins.  Had one of my best waves ever.  A nice meaty one came right to me and picked me up with barely a paddle.  It…

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Birthday Surf

8 December 2010

Poseidon brought me sweet birthday waves today.  Not only were they great size and shape, but they were consistent as well.  Even with the crowds, nobody was want for a waves.  I surfed until my arms gave out.  And I got to test out a new Harbour prototype board.  It’s a kind of thruster biscuit they are tentatively calling The Sausage.  Frankly, I find that a rude name for such a brilliant little board.  I think they should call it The Cloud.

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Gear Swap Friday

5 November 2010

Josh and I swapped boards so I got to ride his Electric Orange all morning.  Dig that little board.  It was a good day for the quad and I felt solid throughout the session.

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Inaugaral Sunset Jetty Session

4 November 2010

Met up with a friend Brad to talk about some web stuff.  Afterward he asked it I had my surf gear with me because he was heading out afterward.  He was heading to the Sunset Jetty, which I’d never surfed before.  That’s one of those breaks that only works under very specific conditions, but when it’s on, it’s on.  I didn’t have my stuff, but I was near the Harbour surf shop.  So I popped up there real quick for some loner equipment. The waves were spectacular.  I rode a Harbour Rapier model for the first time and came the…

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Drizzly Porto

15 October 2010

Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday.  The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun.  Josh was nuts out there today.  Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM!  That dude is a wave warrior.

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Day Two at Leo Carrillo

2 October 2010

More of the same – Perfect rights.  I spent another 4 hour session out in the water.  Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver.  More power turns, less cheater-fives.  I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again.  The toughest part is choosing what board to ride.  For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board.  I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board.  Go-go…

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First Time at Leo Carrillo

1 October 2010

I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend.  I’d surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo.  The forecast was showing that the pumping swell from the week should have been dying off, but it was not so.  Both Friday and Saturday were perfection.  I’d brought my Revolver and the Junod for board choices.  I always like to have the Revolver when I go to a new spot; it’s such a great all-around board. The kelp was insanity.  But what really spooked me was having to take off right from the…

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Barry Vandermeulen Thruster

29 September 2010

Every winter I seem to want to size down some.  This fall is promising the cycle will continue.  My 6’8″ is just feeling too long.  Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday.  Finally Peter said, “Just get it over with, go to 6′ or so and take the time to learn!” In the meantime, Josh lent me his 6’5″ Chuck Dent (Barry Vandermeulen design) to try out for sizing. It is a board Josh had custom made for Huntington. So far, I’d still whittle a few inches of the nose, but I’m having fun with it.  The middle…

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The Golden Day

29 September 2010

I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse.  And it was glorious.  Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down. I caught 3 bombs right from the get-go.  Literally back-to-back.  After that I could never get a breather to recoup and started eating it on a regular basis.  But it didn’t matter.  I’d already had 2 waves-of-the-day and those memories will keep me going for a while. Chuck…

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