First Time at Leo Carrillo

I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend.  I'd surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo.  The forecast was showing that the pumping swell … [Read more...]

Barry Vandermeulen Thruster

Every winter I seem to want to size down some.  This fall is promising the cycle will continue.  My 6'8" is just feeling too long.  Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday.  Finally … [Read more...]

The Golden Day

I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse.  And it was glorious.  Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins... The water was … [Read more...]

Stormy Skies?

There was a disturbance in the force today.  The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn.  The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to … [Read more...]

The Swell Is Here…And It Is Good

I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn't pay too much attention.  So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, … [Read more...]

Small El Porto Day

It was a small day and we knew that going in.  But poor Josh hadn't been out in forever what with his boat sculpture and getting sick.  Peter rolled up shortly after and said Tracy was already out … [Read more...]

Afternoon Delight

Another great day as the awesome swell that made for a superb Hurley Pro at Trestles fades.  The wind hadn't picked up too much and the sun came out, so I rode down for an afternoon surf.  It was … [Read more...]

Super Fun Friday

With the big swell on the way, we first tried hitting up Dockweiler in hopes of catching some of the swell without the crowds, but we were out of luck.  So we caravaned down to El Porto and paddled … [Read more...]

Just Paddling Practice

It had been about 5 days since I'd been out and the buzz was that there was a gnarly swell on the way.  I went out with the main intent of just getting out to paddle about and get everything … [Read more...]

Small, But Surprisingly Good

We went into this morning thinking it was likely to be another lay-day.  But after having a lay-day last week, Sean, CW, Mike and I were hell-bent on paddling out no matter what. Look at that … [Read more...]